6. Energy in the Bath & Laundry

Bath & Laundry

Here are some ideas from the experts for saving energy in these areas of the house:

  • Eighty-five percent of the energy for clothes washers is to heat the water; 80 percent for dishwashers.
  • House air is always very dry in the winter. Divert some or all of the hot air exhausted from the clothes dryer with an air diverter. That extra humidity saves you the cost of running a humidifier.
  • Use that “air diverter” clothes-dryer exhaust to heat a woodworking shop, a solar greenhouse—the garage while you’re doing some auto mechanics.
  • Use cold water for the washer rinse cycle except for very dirty or oily clothes.
  • You might experiment with the delicate washer cycle. It uses less energy.
  • Cool-down clothes dryers are more efficient because the dryer heater shuts off slowly. The residual heat in the metallic structure does the last bit of drying. (Ovens and dishwashers need that cycle, too.)
  • Don’t over-dry clothes.
  • Remove lint from the dryer filter after each load.
  • Repair basin stoppers to avoid wasting water from leaks: proper adjustment, clogged by hair or debris, lubricate the linkage.
  • If a faucet leaks for a long time, the valve seat erodes—a major repair! Replace the soft valve disk as soon as you notice leaks.
  • Remove lint and debris (spider webs, etc.) from the dryer vent termination outside.
  • Install high-efficiency, water-saving showerheads.
  • Don’t use flow-restrictor showerhead inserts. It’s better to purchase a whole new showerhead.
  • A pressure-flushing toilet (versus a conventional siphon toilet that operates via gravity feed) uses much less water. The pressure tank can often be installed in the existing water storage tank.
  • Use low-temperature detergents for washing clothes. They work well with the warm/tepid water temperatures suitable for bathing and washing hands.
  • Don’t leave the water running while washing your hands or brushing your teeth. Likewise, in the kitchen, rinsing off dishes.
  • Don’t use bathroom vent fans in the winter because you want that moisture to stay in the house to offset the dehumidification done on house air by central heating.
  • The Eco Shower Head slows the water down to a trickle when the temperature reaches setpoint, to minimize wasted water.
  • Replace a flapper-type outside dryer exhaust vent with a model that seals tightly. An open flapper in the winter can let cold air enter the house and increase heating costs.
  • “Dryer balls” bounce around inside the clothes dryer, increasing air circulation and decreasing the time to dry. They can be used over and over again.
  • Lightweight fabrics dry faster. Dry them separate from heavy bath towels and jeans and save some energy.
  • Don’t add wet items to a load that’s already half dry.
  • Be sure the flexible exhaust duct for the dryer isn’t squashed. Any airflow restriction can affect performance.
  • Pull clothes out of the dryer as soon as the cycle finishes to reduce wrinkling. Some dryers have a feature that rotates the drum periodically after the last cycle ends.
  • Automatic shut-off dryers (based on the moisture level inside) use 10 percent less energy than a straight timer. If the automatic shut-off acts on the temperature of the exhaust air, you save 15 percent.
  • Energy use among clothes dryers (as with all major appliances) can vary by 30 percent. When you’re in the market, find a new dryer in your price range that’s the most efficient. At an average of five hundred runs per year, dryer efficiency is essential!
  • Many utilities offer rebates for high-efficiency Energy Star clothes dryers and washing machines. Note: Energy Star bases energy-consumption numbers on eight loads per week.
  • Temperature settings being the same, a washing machine uses less energy to run one full load than two medium loads.
  • A hot-water wash with a warm-water rinse uses five to ten times more energy than a cold wash and rinse.
  • Front-loading washing machines are much more efficient than top-loading models. The latter are doing better, but there’s still a big difference.
  • Change the hot water settings on the washer to “warm.” Likewise, with temperature settings on the clothes dryer.

Here are some ideas from the experts for saving energy in these areas of the house:

  • Eighty-five percent of the energy for clothes washers is to heat the water; 80 percent for dishwashers.
  • House air is always very dry in the winter. Divert some or all of the hot air exhausted from the clothes dryer with an air diverter. That extra humidity saves you the cost of running a humidifier.
  • Use that “air diverter” clothes-dryer exhaust to heat a woodworking shop, a solar greenhouse—the garage while you’re doing some auto mechanics.
  • Use cold water for the washer rinse cycle except for very dirty or oily clothes.
  • You might experiment with the delicate washer cycle. It uses less energy.
  • Cool-down clothes dryers are more efficient because the dryer heater shuts off slowly. The residual heat in the metallic structure does the last bit of drying. (Ovens and dishwashers need that cycle, too.)
  • Don’t over-dry clothes.
  • Remove lint from the dryer filter after each load.
  • Repair basin stoppers to avoid wasting water from leaks: proper adjustment, clogged by hair or debris, lubricate the linkage.
  • If a faucet leaks for a long time, the valve seat erodes—a major repair! Replace the soft valve disk as soon as you notice leaks.
  • Remove lint and debris (spider webs, etc.) from the dryer vent termination outside.
  • Install high-efficiency, water-saving showerheads.
  • Don’t use flow-restrictor showerhead inserts. It’s better to purchase a whole new showerhead.
  • A pressure-flushing toilet (versus a conventional siphon toilet that operates via gravity feed) uses much less water. The pressure tank can often be installed in the existing water storage tank.
  • Use low-temperature detergents for washing clothes. They work well with the warm/tepid water temperatures suitable for bathing and washing hands.
  • Don’t leave the water running while washing your hands or brushing your teeth. Likewise, in the kitchen, rinsing off dishes.
  • Don’t use bathroom vent fans in the winter because you want that moisture to stay in the house to offset the dehumidification done on house air by central heating.
  • The Eco Shower Head slows the water down to a trickle when the temperature reaches setpoint, to minimize wasted water.
  • Replace a flapper-type outside dryer exhaust vent with a model that seals tightly. An open flapper in the winter can let cold air enter the house and increase heating costs.
  • “Dryer balls” bounce around inside the clothes dryer, increasing air circulation and decreasing the time to dry. They can be used over and over again.
  • Lightweight fabrics dry faster. Dry them separate from heavy bath towels and jeans and save some energy.
  • Don’t add wet items to a load that’s already half dry.
  • Be sure the flexible exhaust duct for the dryer isn’t squashed. Any airflow restriction can affect performance.
  • Pull clothes out of the dryer as soon as the cycle finishes to reduce wrinkling. Some dryers have a feature that rotates the drum periodically after the last cycle ends.
  • Automatic shut-off dryers (based on the moisture level inside) use 10 percent less energy than a straight timer. If the automatic shut-off acts on the temperature of the exhaust air, you save 15 percent.
  • Energy use among clothes dryers (as with all major appliances) can vary by 30 percent. When you’re in the market, find a new dryer in your price range that’s the most efficient. At an average of five hundred runs per year, dryer efficiency is essential!
  • Many utilities offer rebates for high-efficiency Energy Star clothes dryers and washing machines. Note: Energy Star bases energy-consumption numbers on eight loads per week.
  • Temperature settings being the same, a washing machine uses less energy to run one full load than two medium loads.
  • A hot-water wash with a warm-water rinse uses five to ten times more energy than a cold wash and rinse.
  • Front-loading washing machines are much more efficient than top-loading models. The latter are doing better, but there’s still a big difference.
  • Change the hot water settings on the washer to “warm.” Likewise, with temperature settings on the clothes dryer.

 7.1 HOW ABOUT A SWIM IN THE POOL INSTEAD OF A BATH?

Except, soap in pool water confounds the PH level. You need to add chemicals to get the alkalinity back to normal. Every chemical, in turn, has secondary effects on the mineral content; the water can get cloudy, it can cause algae to grow, even aggravate your skin and cause eczema—bleach your hair!

 7.2 RUN THE CLOTHES DRYER WITH CONSECUTIVE LOADS, and it doesn’t have to heat the dryer all over again (the drum, door, fan). Remove shirts and fine clothing while they’re still damp to either let them dry with fewer wrinkles or iron them on the spot (damp clothes iron better). I save even more energy and just wear wrinkly clothes.

7.3 TAKE FEWER BATHS.

People take an average of one bath each day, sometimes even two or three (in the morning when you wake up, then in the evening after a workout at the gym or a tough match on the tennis court). The experts say you need at most one bath every other day, with daily attention to the face, armpits, groin, and buttocks.

7.4 TAKE A “NAVY SHOWER.”

Wet down. Soap up. Rinse off. The shower is on for less than a minute total. Mission accomplished: You’re clean, refreshed, and ready for duty. Sir!

7.5 HOW ABOUT A SWIM IN THE POOL INSTEAD OF A BATH?

Except, soap in pool water confounds the PH level. You need to add chemicals to get the alkalinity back to normal. Every chemical, in turn, has secondary effects on the mineral content; the water can get cloudy, it can cause algae to grow, even aggravate your skin and cause eczema—bleach your hair!

 RUN THE CLOTHES DRYER WITH CONSECUTIVE LOADS, and it doesn’t have to heat the dryer all over again (the drum, door, fan). Remove shirts and fine clothing while they’re still damp to either let them dry with fewer wrinkles or iron them on the spot (damp clothes iron better). I save even more energy and just wear wrinkly clothes.

TAKE FEWER BATHS.

People take an average of one bath each day, sometimes even two or three (in the morning when you wake up, then in the evening after a workout at the gym or a tough match on the tennis court). The experts say you need at most one bath every other day, with daily attention to the face, armpits, groin, and buttocks.

7.4 TAKE A “NAVY SHOWER.”

Wet down. Soap up. Rinse off. The shower is on for less than a minute total. Mission accomplished: You’re clean, refreshed, and ready for duty. Sir!

7.5 TAKE A SHOWER INSTEAD OF A BATH. 

The main bathroom in my house has one of those old-timey bear claw tubs. Very cool. Always wanted one of those. Except a bath uses much more water than a quick shower. So, I stuffed the bathtub full of decorative pillows and old blankets. Oscar the cat noticed, and now she sleeps in the bathtub every night. Problem solved.

Happy ending for everybody.

7.6 INSTALL A LOW–FLOW SHOWERHEAD. 

I prefer a regular shower head but with a quick Navy shower. Either way, you save a lot of hot-water energy.

7.7 GET A FANCY SHOWER CONTROL THAT YOU ADJUST ONCE FOR TEMPERATURE, then another lever turns the water on and off. (The temperature remains fixed after that.) Very helpful to be sure and have the same (minimum) temperature every time you bathe.

7.8 SET THE WATER HEATER TO 105° F AND RUN 100 PERCENT  HOT WATER WHEN SHOWERING. 

Most appliances (clothes washer, dishwasher) heat water internally, so they’ll continue to operate as designed.

7.9 RX FOR AFTER A TOO–HOT SHOWER. 

If you want a splendid cooling off, leave a thin layer of water on your torso and let it evaporate. In front of a fan! Feel that 540 calories per gram of water cool you right on down.

 7.10 ALL THAT EVAPORATING BATHWATER TURNS INTO HOUSE– AIR HUMIDITY. 

Humidity is good in the winter because central heating takes most of the moisture out of the air. However, in the summer, all that water on the shower walls, moisture when the towel dries, from the floor mat—all that wet ends up in the air, and your heat pump has to dehumidify the air mechanically.

7.11 USE THE BATHROOM EXHAUST FANS. 

Bathroom moisture ends up in the air as humidity, but that moist air doesn’t necessarily have to end up as an extra load on the AC system. Turn on the ceiling exhaust fan and suck the moist air out of the bathroom right then and there.

7.12 CRACK OPEN A WINDOW WHILE THE EXHAUST FAN IS RUNNING, so the makeup air comes from outside and not from the rest of the house.

 7.13 SOMETIMES, MOISTURE JUST WALKS INTO THE HOUSE. 

Can you think of anything else that inadvertently adds moisture to the air in your house? How about after it rains? A wet raincoat draped over a kitchen chair, a wet umbrella propped up in the laundry room—Lucky the dog shaking himself dry in the middle of the kitchen!

7.14 LAUNDRY ROOMS EXHAUST A LOT OF AIR. 

You’ve noticed the outside dryer vent when the cycle is running, blowing out all that humid air? Well, that air starts off in the laundry room: nice, conditioned house air is drawn into the dryer, great gulping volumes of it. Air that you’ve already spent energy heating or cooling and dehumidifying. All that HVAC energy is gone to the wind. 

 7.15 CRACK OPEN A WINDOW IN THE LAUNDRY ROOM, SO MAKE–UP AIR SUCKED INTO THE CLOTHES DRYER COMES  (MOSTLY) FROM OUTSIDE. 

Imagine a commercial laundry (or washing clothes for a family of four!) in the basement of a hospital, hotel, or health club. The laundry continuously vents a tremendous volume of air, all of it conditioned air from inside the facility. You might as well have a dedicated HVAC unit to dehumidify that same volume of outside air, then cool it, only to suck it through the dryer, where it’s heated up all over again!

7.16 THE CLOTHES DRYER CREATES A NEGATIVE PRESSURE IN THE LAUNDRY ROOM. 

That pressure differential versus the rest of the house motivates air to move from the house proper into the laundry room until the pressure equalizes. Likewise, if you run the exhaust fan in the shower, the fan exhausts the humid shower air before the moisture migrates into the house proper.

7.17 HOSPITAL ISOLATION WARDS USE NEGATIVE PRESSURE

relative to the rest of the facility, preventing airborne pathogens from leaving isolation wards. HVAC engineers use this technique in operating rooms, intensive care wards, and AIDS clinics. It’s not hard to set up: The system exhausts more air than it supplies.

7.18 NEGATIVE PRESSURE ZONES ARE CONTROLLED BY A

BARYCENTRIC DAMPER in the wall between the negative-pressure area and the normal-pressure area, open to both spaces. The damper rotates slightly in response to pressure differences on either side of the wall, triggering a signal to an exhaust fan to speed up or slow down to maintain the design pressure differential.

7.19 ALL HOUSES HAVE A VAPOR BARRIER IN THE OUTSIDE WALL,

overlapping layers of tar paper (or a “shrink wrap,” plastic). High summertime humidity outside versus low humidity inside creates a dramatic moisture differential across the walls. The vapor barrier keeps that moisture outside.

7.20 VAPOR PRESSURE NEVER STOPS TRYING TO EQUALIZE. 

You open a window—higher vapor pressure drives moisture inside. Cracks around siding, doors, and plumbing or electrical (faucets, plugs) penetrations in the outside wall—in comes vapor pressure. The higher the vapor differential, the greater the flow of humidity. There’s literally no stopping it.

7.21 GAS DRYERS NEED AN OUTSIDE COMBUSTION AIR VENT to

deliver fresh air to the burner, or the dryer will burn up the oxygen in your house (not good). If your dryer doesn’t have a built-in fresh air vent, it’s essential to leave a window cracked open to supply that combustion air (plus the air-volume to compensate for the dryer’s exhausting airflow).

7.22 IT’S CHEAPER TO DRY TOWELS IN THE BATHROOM THAN  IN AN ELECTRIC DRYER. 

Because a clothes dryer is straight electric “strip” heat, efficiency = 1.0. Versus dehumidification (eventually, as the moisture migrates through the house) by the heat pump, which operates at an efficiency = 3.0. So, it costs three times more in the clothes dryer (unless you have a gas dryer). You can always hang the towels on a clothesline outside, for an efficiency = infinity.

7.23 VENTILATE THE BATHROOM because high vapor pressure inside the bathroom drives moisture through the interior walls of the house. The water vapor condenses there, creating the perfect habitat for mold inside the walls. So, use the exhaust fan when you can (run it for a half an hour or so after bathing), dry the towels where it’s practical, and leave the bathroom door open. Then let the HVAC cooling coils do their job, extracting moisture from the air.

7.24 DO YOU NEED ALL THOSE ELECTRICAL APPLIANCES IN  THE BATHROOM? 

I use an electric toothbrush only because my dentist recommended one. I still use a regular razor to shave. Most of the degradation in steel blades is caused by rust, so I put a light coat of oil on the blades after shaving, and a single set of blades lasts forever. I don’t have much hair left, but doesn’t all that electric strip heat blow-dryer damage your hair?

7.25 GET A SMALL WATER HEATER TO REALLY SAVE HOT WATER. 

When I was a boy, we lived in Germany for a year. It was a small house (family of six), with a tiny gas water heater. There was only enough hot water for one or two baths. As the youngest, I was always the last in line. Cold baths in cold Germany?

I’ve taken short baths ever since. Great way to save energy, though. Good for your skin, too.

7.26 USE ONLY AS MUCH DETERGENT AS YOU NEED. 

The phosphates in soap cause a lot of damage to aquifers and surface bodies of water. It’s called “eutrophication,” which means phosphates build-up in waterways and lead to giant algae blooms that starve out fish and plants for lack of oxygen.

7.27 MOUNTAIN SICKNESS is an oxygen-deprivation condition suffered by people who go to very high altitudes without taking time to acclimate. The symptoms are confusion, weakness, lack of affect, all the way up to psychosis. (Attention Deficit Disorder has these same symptoms.) Don’t risk the same issues if your house is sealed too tight, and there’s not a regular interchange of stale, indoor air heavy with CO2, and fresh outside air.

7.28 MINERALS PRECIPITATE INSIDE THE WATER HEATER, especially if you have hard water (it takes lots of soap to lather up in the shower or wash clothes and dishes). These solids cover up the heating element, acting as insulation, and reduce the efficiency of the unit. Drain the water heater tank every year—more often if you have hard water.

7.29 WATER SOFTENERS ADD A SALT COMPOUND TO THE

WATER, which causes the electric-heat anodes to corrode rapidly. Water heaters have a “sacrificial anode” that corrodes instead of the inside of the tank. Salt accelerates anode corrosion, so it must be changed out every couple of years.

7.30 NO–WASH T-SHIRTS ARE MADE FROM AN ABSORBENT FABRIC  THAT SOAKS UP BODY ODORS. 

“You can wear it for days, maybe even weeks, without washing,” says the PR blurb online. Sure, it’s convenient, and you might even save a minuscule amount of energy washing and drying, but really, now. Is that even healthy?

Future Tech! 

7.31

There are no enforceable standards for indoor air quality. The building industry should require CO2 alarms, just like they require smoke alarms.

7.32

Clothes dryers should be equipped with a second “make-up air” to draw outside air into the unit instead of house air (similar to wood-burning stoves).

7.33

All programmable thermostats need a moisture sensor in the return air duct and to display the indoor humidity in the readout panel so that people can get acquainted with humidity levels.

7.34

A CO2 sensor and alarm in the programmable thermostat configuration would ensure adequate oxygen levels in every house.

7.35

Building codes require a vapor barrier around the building envelope, but not around high-humidity areas inside the home like the bathrooms, kitchen, and utility room.